Wednesday, February 1, 2012

Comment on engine removal.

I recieved a comment I thought I should share with you guys. :) Please keep in mind I am open to any suggestions on below information.



Hi and thank you so much for your comment! This is the first car I ever owned and the first car I ever restored, so I'm really new to this stuff. :)

Regarding the radiator, what will be the gains of a three row radiator? Better cooling? I am going to rebuild the engine and my plan as of now(I am open to suggestions) is to have the engine block and heads inspected at an engine shop to determine the condition.

If the heads are reusable with little restoration work from the engine shop I will keep them and add these components to my engine:

* Edelbrock 1406 Performer Carburetor(600 CFM)
* Edelbrock 2186 Performer Intake Manifold
* Edelbrock 2192 Performer-Plus Cam and Lifter Kits
* Edelbrock 1723 Performer RPM Street Fuel Pumps
* Hooker 5903-1HKR Hooker Competition Headers
* Summit Racing SUM-380459 Direct Fit Aluminum Radiators

As well as a following large list of oil pump, harmonic damper, water pump, timing chain set, timing cover, alternator, etc. I believe above list will be suited for the original heads. The cam also looks really interesting in combination with intake and headers, check this graph, for a 383 Chrysler engine:

Surely this would add to my 400 High Performance engine as well?


If however, the engine shop determines there is extensive work needed to the heads I will probably buy Edelbrock 60929 Performer RPM cylinder heads. In which case I will change the above Performer list to Performer RPM stuff.

My intentions with the Cordoba is to keep the appearance original, reuse as much as possible, but equip with a little stronger gear to get additional torque and HP. The reason for this is I want to sustain driveability as far as possible.

Regarding the A/C. It has never worked during the time I've owned it. I have never missed it and it only adds to the weight of the car. Why do you think I should keep it? Thank you in advance.

5 comments:

  1. on the radiator .yes its to keep it cool and if its factory being 30+ years old it will need it.big block mopars run warm as it is.the heads on it are what are called smog heads. you can use them but will need some work.it all depends on what ur doing to the bottom end.the 400 has 2.08 intake valves u can have shop open it up to put in 2.14 and have them do a gasket match on intake and intake ports on heads.its a light porting job u can do it but u said this is ur 1st time so u may need help with that.u can use a lot of factory stuff.when it comes to cams and other hp parts u have to rember the cordoba,s are heavy and u need tork as well as hp to move it.the a/c dosent add that much weight to it. and every one i know that ever pull the a/c wished thay dident.i still have the a/c on my mopars.but u need to have a budget for your car.i am currently working putting a 440 /493 stroker into 1 of my 76 cordoba,s. it sounds ur doing fine so far.this is rich spotz from fb

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  2. Thank you for your input Rich. :) I am aware of the smog heads. That's why I went for Edelbrock Performer equipment, rather than Edelbrock Performer RPM which in my understanding is more of race equipment.

    And it's quite of a hard decision to make. The Cordobas are after all very elegant. They were never even meant to be muscle cars. I live in Sweden so there are veeery few Cordobas over here and I would like to avoid as much as possible to alter original features which can not be undone, such as cutting in the block.

    Maybe the way to go is to keep the Cordoba original and only add removable elements to it and later aqquire a real muscle car from Mopar. :)

    What is your opinion on the stuff I posted in this blog entry? Based on the graph for the 383 for an example? I am really interested in any opinions, I LOVE this car! :)

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  3. I think the Thermoquad (850 cfm)it came with is a better choice than the 600 cfm Performer(small for the engine). The 452 heads are about as good as any factory heads except for the 915 closed chambered ones and the 452s have hardened exhaust seats for unleaded gas. Those heads are pretty much bullet proof and can be put back into service most of the time with just a good valve job and new seals. The popular option is to go to a closed chambered aluminum head such as the Edelbrock although if you are just restoring the car as a cruiser, that's probably overkill. Where the 400 really needs help is compression. The ratio's rediculously low, 8.5:1 or worse according to some sources. The suggestion to stroke the block is a very good one as it'll give you added torque right off the bat. You may want to check out www.440source.com for some of their offerings. They have reasonably priced full drop in kits. A small overbore 0.030" and the 440 3.75" crankshaft will put you at 451 cu in. Going with new pistons in the kit gets your compression back up. Look around at Competition Cams and even Mopar Performance for your cam setup. Look for a cam that'll keep your powerband to 6500 rpm or less and you'll be fine. That'll give you enough vaccum to run all of the power goodies and off the line torque to get that big car going.

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  4. Thank you for posting this. Great list Thanks for sharing with us.
    Cheap Radiators & Radiator Fans

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